Emerging Designer Spotlight - Tabii Just: a ZeroWaste, Sustainable Womenswear Label Manufactured in NYC

We love Twitter! Thanks to Twitter we connected with Tabitha St. Barnard, co-owner and head designer of newly established sustainable fashion line - Tabii Just (New York City, NY). At age 25 Tabitha decided to change paths and joined the fashion industry with a purpose - launching a sustainable fashion brand. She was first introduced to the industry when she interned with Vivienne Tam and was inspired by Vivienne’s infusion of her culture and passion into her line.

Following her first internship, Tabitha joined Tahari ASL knitwear team and gained valuable experience and knowledge about industry logistics, such as how to keep records and how to make orders under a strict deadline. While working with Tahari ASL, Tabitha also learned how to create clothing for a target market rather than what she believed to be beautiful. She gained an understanding of how to make women feel comfortable when they put on the clothes she designed. In the last 12 months she and her sister set out on their own and established an awesome womenswear line, Tabii Just - a sustainable, zero waste collection.

A few weeks ago we had a chance to interview Tabitha over the phone and learn more about her collection. Originally from Trinidad and Tobago, Tabitha is proud of her origins and describes herself as a Trinidadian/American designer. 

Spring 2013 Collection - Layla Dress RR: How do you choose the colors and patterns for your collection?
Tabitha: My eyes are always open to what trends are really resonating with people and what colors they wear. I have books of pictures I’ve collected from magazines and when it’s time to focus on a seasonal collection, I revisit these books and pull out what I’ve already seen on the streets. I also continue sketching new designs though I try to start from fabric because that inspires me the most. If I see a print that I really like I’ll design around that print or color. It has to mean something to me... I want to design clothes that can transcend time and be beautiful and trendy 5 years from today.

RR: Where do you source your material and how does this influence your design process?
Tabitha: These days I work with one fabric vendor in the city who I’ve built a good relationship with -- at this stage, it’s important for me to work with people who I can really depend on. It has been a process to find someone who could supply within my bounds. I reached out to a few suppliers but they wanted orders of thousands of yards. Since I’m just now starting out I had to look for scraps and trim vendors.

When I attended DG Expo - small quantity fabric vendors - I met my knit vendor and my relationship with him has developed nicely since we first connected. Then I discovered Preview Textile Group by chance and was introduced to my current fabric vendor who lets me look through a room full of excess fabric from larger fashion lines who didn’t use all of their fabric. So I go there and browse and sometimes I’ll find 50 yards of fabric, and if I need more, my vendor is happy to order more for me.

I create a minimum quantity at the moment and then sell that to the stores as opposed to getting an order from the stores. My vendor is responsive and excited about my work and that’s important to me. I get excited when people get excited about my Zero Waste collection!

RR: Where do you draw your inspiration from?
Tabitha: Brooklyn! I love this city. Walking down the street people are so expressive with what they wear. I see many different body shapes and I see how they all dress themselves to look so good. I also draw inspiration from Trinidad’s vibrant colors of the ocean, natural surroundings, and traditional garments individuals there wear to express themselves culturally.

RR: Zero Waste design is no easy task. How do you go about visualizing your Zero Waste garments?
Tabitha: It is a challenge to do Zero Waste... when I was first introduced to the concept it resonated with me and I knew I wanted to do that! I look forward to making clothes within those guidelines. I usually start out with a yard of fabric and drape it in such a way that allows me to use as much of the fabric as possible - I experiment with the shapes on the body form. Simultaneously, I look at how clothes are made and search for opportunities to reduce waste or ways to divert excess fabric from landfills. If I can’t use a yard of fabric in its entirety, I do my best to create “waste” shapes that can be used to make bags. For the scraps of fabric that can’t be used in making bags, we collaborate with individuals such as toy makers who are able to use smaller pieces in various ways.

RR: Describe the Tabii Just girl:
Tabitha: The Tabii Just girl has a mix of urban edge and sophistication. She’s not your typical girly girl! This girl loves making a statement with  her looks and she doesn’t mind being the center of attention. She’s a fashionista who takes fashion seriously but has fun with it! She’s okay with not always getting fashion ‘right’ because for her, it’s all about experimenting with statement prints and vibrant colors. 

Spring 2013 Collection - Arielle Dress is Tabitha's favorite design from her most recent collection. RR: Congratulations on a successful RocketHub campaign! What’s your next move?
Tabitha: It’s pretty amazing. Three months ago we didn’t have any money and now we have seed funding for the next collection.

RR: What are you most excited about for the coming year?
Tabitha: Oh wow -- there’s a couple of things that are in the works. We’re going to be a part of Princeton’s Sustainable Fashion Week which will be the first show for Tabii Just. This will be a chance to spread the word about the line. We’re excited to sell the line and get the word out on how we see fashion. The more people I talk to about Tabii Just, the more I can inspire people to do fashion differently -- an expression of who we are doesn’t need to be wasteful and we can work locally and not compromise a look!

Spring 2013 Collection - The Sarah Dress Tabii Just will be joining Redress Raleigh for the Eco Fashion & Textiles Conference and will be selling her collection at the Marketplace. We are excited to work with Tabitha - watching her grow as a sustainable designer and seeing her collections transform from season to season. Tabitha is full of passion and determination to create sustainable fashion that reduces textile waste, which aligns perfectly with Redress Raleigh’s vision of an eco and ethical future. We are can’t wait to see her incredible designs in person! 

Textiles in North Carolina: the Economic Benefits of Supporting the USA’s Apparel and Textiles Industry

With help from our awesome Research Coordinator Nicole Kilgerman, Redress Raleigh is bringing you one of many more articles to come about the economic impact of the fashion and textiles industry in the United States. According to the National Council of Textile Organizations, today there are over 500,000 workers employed by the U.S. textile industry - cotton and man-made fiber producers, textile mills, apparel plants, and textile machinery producers. In 2011 the breakdown of jobs was 121,000 textile mills; 117,000 textile product mills; 152,000 apparel; and finally, 116,275 cotton producers.  

North Carolina specifically (Redress Raleigh’s home state) is “the second-largest textile state and the third-largest apparel state in the United States in terms of employment” (National Council of Textile Organizations). In 1992, “textiles production represented 16% of total manufacturing production” in North Carolina (The North Carolina Textiles Project at UNC).  Currently, North Carolina’s textile industry employs more than 59,000 workers and accounts for 10.7% of all manufacturing jobs, in comparison apparel jobs number a little over 20,000 (Duke University).

Unfortunately North Carolina has been hit the hardest in terms of job losses and plant closings in the last 50 years. Over a twelve month period ending in May 2006 the state lost nearly 7,000 jobs, a figure that is “more than double that of the next most comparable state in textiles, Alabama, with 2,800 job losses” (National Council of Textile Organizations). Yet while many apparel and textile manufacturers have moved production overseas, there are still a number of companies in North Carolina that continue to manufacture fibers, yarns, fabrics, apparel, and chemicals used in the fashion and textiles industry.

Jobs lost in North Carolina’s textile & apparel industry between 1996 and 2006.
An on-going study conducted by the College of Textiles at NC State University shows that in North Carolina alone there are 55 companies that produce fibers, 73 companies that produce yarn, 95 fabric manufacturers, 92 apparel companies, and 10 companies that manufacture chemicals (NC Textile Connect). While headquarters of larger companies such as VF Corporation and Hanesbrands Inc., are located in urban environments such as Greensboro and Winston Salem, the majority of smaller textile manufacturers are located in rural North Carolina.

To stay competitive in a global market these smaller apparel and textile companies make an effort to produce innovative textile products. As an example, Tuscarora Yarns, in Mount Pleasant, NC created a yarn that cannot be produced overseas, putting the manufacturer at an advantage.

The textile plants that are located in small rural communities “often times provide a major source of tax revenue and employment for small towns and cities surrounding the textile mill” (National Council of Textile Organizations). In 2011, textile mill workers earned an average of 151% more than retail workers ($575 a week vs. $229) with better benefits, including health care and retirement savings opportunities (National Council of Textile Organizations).

Our research also notes that in addition to the size and scale, manufacturers in North Carolina have contrasting levels of technological and social media advancement. Some companies have modern websites and even Twitter accounts, making it easy for potential employees or clients to contact them. On the other hand, some manufacturers do not even have an email address that can be found on the Internet. Therefore, Redress Raleigh is taking on the challenge to build relationships with as many North Carolina and USA based apparel and textile manufacturers to bridge the gap between them and potential clients or employees.

Redress Raleigh plans to make the case for supporting the apparel and textiles industry as a means to build and support social and economic growth in rural communities. Demand for Made-in-the-USA apparel and textile products is on the rise and our goal is to heal the disconnect that exists or rebuild the broken ties between all key players of the USA’s fashion and textiles industry. Each of us can make an impact by supporting the USA’s apparel and textile manufacturing.

“The future of the US textile industry lies in reinvention. Some of this reinvention may involve new products and processes, but much will be the development of new skills and business models in the  industry” (The North Carolina Textiles Project at UNC).

Until next time! 

2013 Southern Entrepreneurship in the Arts Conference

Optional "Iron Pour" and opening reception at Jim Gallucci Studios, Friday, February 8, 2013

Morning Keynote: Roy Underhill, Host of PBS' The Woodright's Shop + Founder, The Woodwright's School

Lunch Keynote: Dennis Quaintance, CEO + Chief Design Officer of Quaintance-Weaver Hotels and Restaurants

Conference Collaborative Transcriber: Julia Simmons, Dialogue Matters

Join fellow professionals, emerging and mid-career artists, and students at the 4th annual Southern Entrepreneurship in the Arts Conference. Hosted by the North Carolina Entrepreneurship Center and the Entrepreneurship Cross Disciplinary Program at UNCG, the event will feature artists and others talking about how to develop successful ventures. More than 350 people attended the conference in 2012. Join us in February to help create strategies and networks that can result in new opportunities to make a better living following your passion.

More information and to register, please visit the website at http://seac.uncg.edu.

Contact: Valerie Wiseman, 2013 Conference Coordinator, vawisema@uncg.edu

Change Your Clothes: Apparel End Life

Everyday we wake up in North Carolina we are reminded why we love this state so much! Not only are we fortunate enough to have some of the best univiersities in the country, but we're also surrounded by a community of individuals who care. It's nice to know that the conversation surrounding the fashion and textile industry is expanding beyond fashion schools and into management systems. 

 

Our friends from Duke University, Nicholas School of the Environment shared their phenomenal study textile waste in the United States and describe how/why to divert textiles from ending up in a landfill. In the process of conducting their research they found out that several major companies have started taking responsibility for the disposal of their products: 

• Several retailers have or are going to launch apparel take-back programs—Patagonia (through in-store drop boxes for used Patagonia products, which are then recycled), H&M (starting February, in-store drop boxes), PUMA (in the future). 
• Many major brands are selling clothes with recycled content--North Face (e.g., Denali fleece jacket), Patagonia, REI (e.g., Ecomade socks), New Balance (e.g., newSKY shoes), and many more. 
• UNIFI Inc., is one of the main producers of yarn from recycled plastic bottles. Other sources of recycled polyester are Teijin (Japan), Foss Manufacturing (MA), Poole Co. (SC), and DAK Americas (NC).

Take a look at this short educational video and gain more insight about how you can make a difference and reduce apparel & textile waste throughout the world. 

Announcing the Featured Designers of the 5th Annual Redress Eco Fashion Show

We are at it again and this year we're going big!

This March Redress Raleigh celebrates its 5 Year Anniversary all weekend long with the Eco-Fashion & Textiles Conference featuring our annual Eco-Fashion Show. Redress Raleigh is hosting its biggest show yet and we hope you'll be there to take note of the excellent eco-collections available to choose from this spring. 

The Eco-Fashion Show takes place Saturday, March 23rd at the Raleigh Marriott City Center. Attendees are welcome to join us early and enjoy pre-show cocktails and photoshoots starting at 8pm. The fashion show is scheduled to start at 9pm. 

We had the privilege and honor to interview phenomenal designers based in the Triangle and other parts of North Carolina and our decision was not made easily. We are happy to announce the following designers will be featuring their newest collections on the runway! 

Jessica Johnson Moore, Owner & Designer at Little Grey Line 

Marissa Heyl, Owner & Designer at Symbology 

Pilar Ramirez, Owner & Jeweler at Pamor Designs 

Barton Strawn and Paul Connor, Owners & Designers at Lumina Clothing 

Zulay and Stephanie Smith, Owners & Jewelers at ZassDesigns 

Kim Kirchstein, Owner & Designer at Leopold Designs 

Melissa Lowery, Owner & Jeweler at ssdjewelry 

Emily Kirchem, Owner & Designer at edie kaye 

Jamie Powell, Owner & Designer at Revamp & Johanna Ely, Owner & Jeweler at Good Girl Studios 

Kimberly Ring and Ford Bowman, with Intelligent Design 

Katy Deckard, Designer & Claudia Corletto, Handbag Designer 

We will have additional information about the designers early next week so make sure to check back and learn more about these amazing artists and their work.